23-10-2023
Город-крепость Коулун
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| традиционный китайский: | 九龍城寨 | ||||||||||
| упрощённый китайский: | 九龙城寨 | ||||||||||
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Город-крепость Коулун (англ. Kowloon Walled City) — в прошлом плотнонаселенное, практически не управляемое правительствами поселение в Коулуне, Гонконг. Первоначально на его месте находился китайский военный форт, после того, как Новые Территории были переданы в аренду Великобритании в 1898 году город-крепость стал анклавом. Население города-крепости Коулун значительно возрасло после японской оккупации Гонконга во время Второй мировой войны. В 1987 году в городе-крепости проживало 33 тысячи человек на территории 6.5 акров (0.026 км2). С 1950-х по 1970е годы город-крепость Коулун контролировался триадами, и в нем процветали проституция, азартные игры и наркоторговля.
В январе 1987 года, правительство Гонконга объявило о планах по сносу города-крепости. После сложного процесса выселения проживающих там людей в марте 1993 года снос начался и завершился в апреле 1994 года. В декабре 1995 года на этом месте города-крепости Коулун был открыт одноимённый парк. Некоторые исторические артефакты города-крепости, в том числе здание ямэнь и остатки Южных ворот, были сохранены.
История города-крепости прослеживается от династии Сун (960—1279), когда был сооружён аванпост для контроля за торговлей солью. В течение сотен лет он оставался совсем небольшим, но тем не менее в 1668 гарнизон насчитывал уже 30 человек.[1] Около 1810 года был сооружён небольшой береговой форт.[2] В 1842 году, во время правления цинского императора Даогуана, по Нанкинскому договору остров Гонконг перешел под управление Великобритании. В связи с этим цинские власти посчитали необходимым укрепить форт с целью сдерживания распространения британского влияния. Укрепление форта, включая строительство оборонительной стены, было завершено в 1847 году. Город-крепость был захвачен повстанцами во время восстания тайпинов в 1854 году, которые удерживали его в течение нескольких недель.[1]
Конвенцией о расширении территории Гонконга 1898 года была предусмотрена передача дополнительных территорий Гонконга (Новых Территорий) Великобритании на 99 лет, однако город-крепость, население которого к этому времени составило 700 человек, в соглашение не вошел. Китаю Конвенцией разрешалось держать своих чиновников, однако они не должны были вмешиваться в вопросы обороны Британского Гонконга. Уже в следующем году британский губернатор сэр Генри Блэйк стал подозревать, что вице-король Кантона привлекает войска для саботажа исполнений условий Конвенции. 16 мая 1899 года британские солдаты атаковали город-крепость, однако обнаружили, что войска вице-короля покинули крепость, оставив в нем только мандарина и 150 местных жителей.[1]
Несмотря на то, что город-крепость находился вне пределов зоны британского контроля, в последующие годы англичане немало сделали для его развития. Протестантская церковь организовала дом престарелых в здании ямэнь, а также открыла школу и богадельню. Однако, кроме этих институтов, для британцев город-крепость оставалась лишь обектом праздного любопытства туристов и колонистов. В 1933 году власти Гонконга обявили о планах сноса большей части домов внутри стен города-крепости, обеспечив 436 сквоттеров новым жильём. К 1940 году сохранились только ямэнь, школа и один дом. Во время Второй мировой войны японцы, оккупировавшие Гонконг, снесли городскую стену и использовали камень для строительства аэропорта Кайтак.[1]
Здесь проститутки предлагали свои услуги с одной стороны улицы, а священник проповедовал и раздавал сухое молоко бедным с другой; несмотря на присутствие социальных работников, наркоманы принимали свою дозу на корточках под лестницами; там, где днем играли дети, ночью танцевали стриптиз. Это было очень сложное место, которое очень сложно описать несколькими словами, место, полное ужасов, но в котором большинство людей продолжали вести нормальную жизнь. Место, как впрочем, и все остальные в Гонконге.
Оригинальный текст (англ.)Here, prostitutes installed themselves on one side of the street, while a priest preached and handed out powdered milk to the poor on the other; social workers gave guidance, while drug addicts squatted under the stairs getting high; what were children's games centres by day became strip show venues by night. It was a very complex place, difficult to generalise about, a place that seemed frightening but where most people continued to lead normal lives. A place just like the rest of Hong Kong.[3]—Leung Ping Kwan, City of Darkness, p. 120</ref>
После поражения Японии во Второй мировой войне Китай объявил о намерении вернуть свои права на город-крепость. Воспользовавшись поддержкой Китая в 1947 году около 2000 сквоттеров поселилось на территории города-крепости. Великобритания предприняла в 1948 году неудавшуюся попытку изгнать их, и после этого стала вести политику невмешательства в вопросы. касающиеся города-крепости Коулун.[1]
With no government enforcement from the Chinese or the British save for a few raids by the полиция Гонконга, the Walled City became a haven for crime and drugs. It was only during a 1959 trial for a murder that occurred within the Walled City that the Hong Kong government was ruled to have jurisdiction there. By this time, however, the Walled City was virtually ruled by the organized crime syndicates known as Triads.[1]
Beginning in the 1950s, Triad groups such as the 14K and Sun Yee On gained a stranglehold on the Walled City’s countless brothels, gambling parlors, and opium dens. The Walled City had become such a haven for criminals that police would venture into it only in large groups. It was not until 1973-74, when a series of more than 3,500 police raids resulted in over 2,500 arrests and over Шаблон:Convert/lbs of seized drugs, that the Triads' power began to wane. With public support, particularly from younger residents, the continued raids gradually eroded drug use and violent crime. In 1983, the police commander of the Kowloon City District declared the Walled City’s crime rate to be under control.[1]
The City also underwent massive construction during the 1960s and 1970s.[4] Eight municipal pipes provided water to the entire structure (although more could have come from wells).[5] A few of the streets were illuminated by fluorescent lights, as sunlight rarely reached the lower levels.[1] Although the rampant crime of earlier decades diminished in later years, the Walled City was still known for its high number of unlicensed doctors and dentists, who could operate there without threat of prosecution.[6]
Although the Walled City was for many years a hotbed of criminal activity, most residents were not involved in any crime and lived peacefully within its walls. Numerous small factories and businesses thrived inside the Walled City, and some residents formed groups to organize and improve daily life there. An attempt by the government in 1963 to demolish some shacks in a corner of the City gave rise to an «antidemolition committee» that served as the basis for a Kaifong association. Charities, religious societies, and other welfare groups were gradually introduced to the City. While medical clinics and schools went unregulated, the Hong Kong government did provide some services, such as water supply and mail delivery.[1]
Over time, both the British and the Chinese governments found the City to be increasingly intolerable, despite the low reported crime rate.[7] The quality of life in the City—sanitary conditions in particular—was far behind the rest of Hong Kong. The Sino-British Joint Declaration in 1984 laid the groundwork for the City’s demolition.[1] The mutual decision to tear down the Walled City was announced on 14 January 1987.[8]
The government spent some Шаблон:HKD (Шаблон:USD) in compensation to the estimated 33,000 residents and businesses in a plan devised by a special committee of the Hong Kong Housing Authority.[9] Some residents were not satisfied with the compensation, and were forcibly evicted between November 1991 and July 1992.[10][11] After four months of planning,[12] demolition of the Walled City began on 23 March 1993[6] and concluded in April 1994. Construction work on Kowloon Walled City Park started the following month.[13]
The Walled City was located in what became known as the Kowloon City area of Kowloon. In spite of its transformation from a fort into an urban enclave, the Walled City retained the same basic layout. The original fort was built on a slope[14] and consisted of a 6,5-акра (Шаблон:Convert/km2 sqmi) plot measuring about Шаблон:Convert/by. The stone wall surrounding it had four entrances and measured 4 метра (13 фута) tall and 4,6 метра (15 фута) thick before it was dismantled in 1943.[2][15]
Construction surged dramatically during the 1960s and 1970s, until the formerly low-rise City consisted almost entirely of buildings with 10 stories or more (with the notable exception of the Yamen in its center).[4][8] However, due to the Kai Tak Airport's position 0,8 километра (0,50 миль) south of the City, buildings did not exceed 14 stories.[16] The two-story Sai Tau Tsuen settlement bordered the Walled City to the south and west until it was cleared in 1985 and replaced with Carpenter Road Park.[17][18]
The City's dozens of alleyways were often only Шаблон:Convert/– wide, and had poor lighting and drainage.[19] An informal network of staircases and passageways also formed on upper levels, which was so extensive that one could travel north to south through the entire City without ever touching solid ground.[4] Construction in the City went unregulated, and most of the roughly 350 buildings were built with poor foundations and few or no utilities.[20] Because apartments were so small—about 60% were Шаблон:Convert/m2—space was maximized with wider upper floors, caged balconies, and rooftop additions.[8][21][22] Roofs in the City were full of television antennas, clotheslines, water tanks, and garbage, and could be crossed using a series of ladders.[23][24]
Kowloon Walled City's early population fluctuated between zero and a few hundred, and began growing steadily shortly after World War II. However, there is no accurate population information available for much of the Walled City's later existence. Official census numbers estimated the Walled City's population at 10,004 in 1971 and 14,617 in 1981, but these figures were commonly considered to be much too low. Informal estimates, on the other hand, often mistakenly included the neighboring squatter village of Sai Tau Tsuen.[19][25]
A thorough government survey in 1987 gave a clearer picture: an estimated 33,000 people resided within the Walled City.[8] Based on this survey, the Walled City had a population density of approximately Шаблон:Convert/PD/sqkm in 1987. For comparison, Hong Kong as a whole (itself one of the most densely populated areas on earth) had a population density of about Шаблон:Convert/PD/sqkm as of July 2009.[26]
Contrary to what many outsiders believed, most residents of the Walled City behaved similarly to other Hong Kong natives.[27] In response to difficult living conditions, the residents formed a tightly knit community, helping one another endure various hardships.[28] Within families, wives often did housekeeping, while grandmothers cared for their grandchildren and other children from surrounding households.[29] The City's rooftops were an important gathering place, especially for residents who lived on upper floors. Parents used them to relax, and children would play or do homework there after school.[30]
The Yamen in the heart of the City was also a major social centre, a place for residents to talk, have tea or watch television, and to take classes such as calligraphy. The Old People's Centre also held religious meetings for Christians and others.[31] Other religious institutions included the Fuk Tak and Tin Hau temples, which were used for a combination of Buddhist, Taoist, and animist practices.[32]
The area where the Walled City once stood is now Kowloon Walled City Park (九龍寨城公園), located in today's Kowloon City District. The Шаблон:Convert/m2 park was completed in August 1995, and opened officially a few months later on 22 December. Construction of the park cost a total of Шаблон:HKD (Шаблон:USD).[13] It is adjacent to Carpenter Road Park.[33]
The park's design is modeled on Jiangnan gardens of the early Qing Dynasty. It is divided into eight landscape features,[13] with the fully restored Yamen as its centrepiece. The park's paths and pavilions are named after streets and buildings in the Walled City.[34] Artifacts from the Walled City, such as five inscribed stones and three old wells, are also on display in the park.[33]
Components of the park include:
The Antiquities and Monuments Office conducted archaeological examinations as the Walled City was being demolished, and several cultural remains were discovered.[42] Among them were the Walled City's Yamen and remnants of its South Gate, which were officially designated as declared monuments of Hong Kong on 4 October 1996.[43]
The South Gate had originally served as the Walled City's main entrance. Along with its foundations, other remains included two stone plaques inscribed with "South Gate" and "Kowloon Walled City" from the South Gate and a flagstone path that had led up to it. The foundations of the City's wall and East Gate were also discovered.[13] The Hong Kong government preserved the South Gate remnants next to a square in front of the Yamen.[44]
The Yamen building is made up of three halls; originally the middle hall served as the Assistant Magistrate of Kowloon's administrative office, and the rear block was his residence. After the government officials left the area in 1899, it was used for several other purposes, including an old people's home, a refuge for widows and orphans, a school, and a clinic. It was restored in 1996 and is now found near the center of the park.[45] It contains a photo gallery of the Walled City, and two cannons dating back to 1802 sit at the sides of its entrance.[34]
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The Walled City of Kowloon has no visible wall around it, but it is as clearly defined as if there were one made of hard, high steel. It is instantly sensed by the congested open market that runs along the street in front of the row of dark run-down flats—shacks haphazardly perched on top of one another giving the impression that at any moment the entire blighted complex will collapse under its own weight, leaving nothing but rubble where elevated rubble had stood.
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A few people who spent time in Kowloon Walled City have written accounts of their experiences. Evangelist Jackie Pullinger wrote a 1989 memoir, Crack in the Wall, about her involvement in treating drug addicts within the Walled City.[47] In his 2004 autobiography Gweilo, Martin Booth describes his exploration of the Walled City as a child in the 1950s.[48] In addition to such accounts, many authors, game designers, and filmmakers have used the Walled City to convey a sense of oppressive urbanization or unfettered criminality.
In literature, Robert Ludlum's novel The Bourne Supremacy uses the Walled City as one of its settings.[46] The City appears as a virtual reality environment (described by Steven Poole as an "oasis of political and creative freedom") in William Gibson's Bridge trilogy, and as a contrast with Singapore in his Wired article "Disneyland with the Death Penalty".[49][50] In the manga Crying Freeman, the titular character's wife travels to the Walled City to master her swordsmanship and control a cursed sword.[51] The manga Blood+: Kowloon Nights uses the Walled City as the setting for a series of murders.[52]
The 1984 gangster film Long Arm of the Law features the Walled City as a refuge for gang members before they are gunned down by police.[48] In the 1988 film Bloodsport, starring Jean-Claude Van Damme, the Walled City is the setting for a martial arts tournament.[53] The 1992 non-narrative film Baraka features several highly detailed shots of the Walled City shortly before its demolition. The 1993 film Crime Story starring Jackie Chan was partly filmed in the deserted Walled City, and includes real scenes of building explosions.[54] A walled neighborhood called the Narrows in the 2005 film Batman Begins was inspired by the Walled City.[55] The 2006 Hong Kong horror film Re-cycle features a decrepit, nightmarish version of the Walled City, complete with tortured souls from which the protagonist must flee.[56] The anime series Street Fighter II V featured Kowloon Walled City as the location of an underground fighting circuit.
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Hive of dream. Those mismatched, uncalculated windows. How they seemed to absorb all the frantic activity of Kai Tak airport, sucking in energy like a black hole.
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Kowloon Walled City is also featured in several games, including Kowloon's Gate,[48] Shenmue II[57] and Call of Duty: Black Ops. The game Stranglehold, a sequel to the film Hard Boiled, features a version of the Walled City filled with hundreds of Triad members.[57] In the games Fear Effect and Fear Effect 2, photographs of the Walled City were used as inspiration "for moods, camera angles and lighting."[58] Concept art for the MMORPG Guild Wars: Factions depicts massive, densely packed structures inspired by the Walled City.[59] The pen-and-paper RPG Shadowrun includes a crime-ridden, rebuilt version of the Walled City set in 2070.[60]
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